New Year's

I had considered taking the boat to Heybeliada, the 2nd largest of the Princess Islands, but it was raining so headed to Marmara University library to use the computer. I introduced myself to Yazbahar, the reference librarian. She was eager to practice her English, having just completed a 3 month English course in Edinburgh. She proceeded to give me a tour of the library and introduce me to all the staff. It's a public university so the resources are rather meager. Librarians sit behind glass walls, simple wooden desks for students and porcelain hole in the floor for rest rooms.

Yazbahar invited me to her New Year's Eve party! She gave me simple directions and drew a map. I was off to see the Rezan Has museum. It should have been labeled a gallery seeing as it was just one room! This small private university is located in restored brick buildings with a beautiful garden courtyard.

Stopped off at the Grand Bazaar for some quick shopping. Bought a tablecloth from a man whose Indian partner was visiting. The Turkish textile industry had been devastated due to cheap labor in India and China. He claimed the design was Turkish and the product is manufactured in India.

The short bus ride to the party turned out to be an hour in heavy traffic. I was instructed to exit on a bridge. I got off on a major highway and proceeded to show multiple people my directions. I found myself walking through a dark, closed industrial area. Inquiring at a barber shop I learned that my landmark was a tall building on the horizon. I considered turning back, but was rewarded when I finally arrived on Yazbahar's doorstep. She was surprised and pleased to see me.

Her husband is doing his mandatory military service for a year. 3 male friends and 2 women friends were enjoying the first course of kebab and spinach borek. Yazbahar then ripped open a Santa Clause costume and asked for volunteers. One man quickly acceded to her request. They had picked numbers previously to buy one present for a friend. Of course she gave me a present of earrings. One man was pleased to receive a remote controlled helicopter. The man who gave the present was crestfallen when it failed to work. Then the recipient read the directions and managed to get it flying all around the room.

Then there was a break as the women retreated to the kitchen to make the next course. They played Turkish music and showed me videos from the computer. The next course was stuffed grape leaves and peppers, salad, potatoes, beer, chocolate and wine. Yazbahar was pretty good in translating the conversation for me. It was delightful to see them laughing and enjoying each other's company. About 11:30 I was fading so Yazbahar and a friend walked me to the bus stop. Turks celebrate the New Year, but the bus schedule was not extended for the holiday. We then had to go to the mini-bus stop. The friend jumped on the bus, paid my fare and instructed the driver of my destination.

From Kadikoy I needed another mini-bus to my university. A young man brought me to the stop and inquired whether I had money - he was ready to pay my fare!!

January 1 was a brilliant, sunny day - I forgot what a day without rain looked like. With a pleading look I was assisted with getting my suitcase on the ferry and over to the European side. I took the tram to my original hotel in Sultanahmet so Saturday I could easily hop on the tram to the airport.

I met Itzak Mizrachi at 1. He hosted a group of Atlantan Jewish tourists who were visiting on an interfaith tour. He's a tour guide in Spanish and Hebrew. The visit was a bit awkward because he wanted to bring me around to the sites, but I had seen them all. I really wanted to talk with him about Jewish life in Turkey. We walked in the Hippodrome and entered the Blue Mosque. While eating boreks he said that life wasn't so good for Jews, but he did not elaborate of consider leaving.

I met Erhan, my friend who is a hotel clerk whom I had met in 2006. It was the same story with him- he wants to make job changes and advance - but, he hesitates, ponders too much and is not too realistic. Once again, I quashed the option of marrying a Russian in Denmark. We drank tea in a tiny restaurant, literally a hole in the wall. We climbed a very narrow winding staircase up 2 flights to a delightful perch with a breathtaking view of the Blue Mosque at sunset.

Erhan declined my dinner invitation because he was tired. I called the remaining people on my list and found one woman at home. She was quite far away, but I had no plans so took the tram and metro to Nisantasi. This woman was type A- really driven. I suddenly showed up at her door at dinner time - a little presumptuous - but only received a cup of tea. Her #1 project is her kid. When she told me she had cameras installed to watch the nanny, I thought it was time to head out! I had my final fish sandwich near the Galata Bridge. I was surprised to see many stands closed, thankfully people were home with their families.