First of all I want to acknowledge the tragedy in Mumbai. I had BBC over the week-end so I could get more news. 185 people- so many families torn apart. Such a tragic situation in the Chabad house - amazing how the child was saved.
It's Sunday evening. I'll fill you in later on what happened during the week, now I'll tell you about the week-end. I left Friday afternoon for Istanbul. I was having a dinner with the Emory alumni in a neighborhood just north of Taksim - the center of the European side. We were meeting at 8:30 so I had time to wander around. I visited the nursing school library at the Koç hospital. This is a branch of our library. It's small; the librarian was so friendly.
This is a wealthy area with a lot of fancy shops and restaurants. The side streets were more interesting. They don't have a lot of trash cans on the sidewalks. When I finally found one near a grocery store, I tossed my banana peel. When I heard a plop I think I found the olive barrel instead.
Only 3 Goizueta alum showed and 1 Emory econ alum and a girlfriend. 2 of the alum work for family businesses - one with petrochemicals and the other manufactures steel boxes and tomato products. They travel to Syria, Jordan and the Caucasus- little different orientation than us!
The econ student is freelancing in Istanbul.
3 of us headed to the Asian side afterwards - this means crossing the Bosphorus. I took a bus to Mamara University. Seval, a friend of Kim Whalen, is a professor there. I stayed in the guest house. When I entered and saw rugs drying on the radiators, I thought maybe I made the wrong choice. My room was superb- I had a large living room area, double bed and best of all- BBC!
Saturday I met Seval and we wandered around Kadıköy and Moda. There are always a lot of transportation options - bus, train, tram, etc. I have an akbil- a little metal button that you keep adding money to- it's so convenient. They were passing out free tulip bulbs. ( you know the Ottomans sent the tulips to the Netherlands.)
I asked Seval if she had seen the movie "Mustafa," about the founder of the state. She had not and said some of her friends did not like the movie. I asked what was their criticism and she said that Atatürk was a great military commander with many victories. This movie depicts him as a womanizer and drinking a lot. Seval said- "why do we need to see such things about our leader?" Hmmm I was thinking- JFK, FDR, Clinton......
Seval is opposed to the current government. She thinks they give all the contracts to their buddies. She said her cousin was told she had to wear a headscarf in the grocery store where she was working. She quit instead of complying. There are very strong opinions about the government. I'm no political expert, but supposedly the current government represents the more traditional elements of society. The Kemalists - the founding party - are the elite secularists. They still control the army and the judiciary.
Late afternoon I took the boat across to the European side to a concert in the train station. The room was beautiful- sort of 1920s look. Easy to buy tickets at the last minute. I bought the cheapest. I was wondering if Turks move up to the better seats once the lights go out- when 2 guys near me whipped out of their seats as soon as the program started, I followed them quickly.
The pianist Tuluyhan Uğurlu was accompanied by 3 musicians on traditional Turkish instruments. Tuluyhan pounded way too much. The savings feature was the slide show during the music. I couldn't understand the captions so I was trying to figure out the theme, but after seeing scenes of the country followed by Jesus, Greeks, soccer stadiums and tea and cookies - I figured there was no theme! I think it was still rather nationalistic. The best part was when they came to the Atatürk slides near the end, the audience actually broke out into applause! Mind you, the country was founded 85 years ago by this guy. I had read somewhere that for Turks, Atatürk is a combination of George Washington, FDR and Jesus all in one.
Sunday morning I woke up early and thought I'd try to get the 7:10 boat to the Princess Islands. These are popular summer spots for people from the city escaping the summer heat. It's really unbearably crowded in the summer - today was just delightful. I witnessed the city unfold in the morning. Very few people on the 1 hr 25min boat ride that stops at the 4 islands. I was only on the island for 1 1/2 hours. The big island is like Mackinaw Island in MI. No cars allowed. There are horse and buggies around and everyone has a bike. A beautiful respite from the Istanbul traffic. I took lots of pictures of the old wooden houses that are nicely restored. The houses are on top of each other, but some have breath-taking views of the sea and the city. Only later did I realize I could have visited some churches and monasteries. On the return I chatted with 2 English women and learned a bit about the ex-pat community. I guess they are getting pensions and legally need to be living in the UK. So they go back every so often. One woman had lived on Crete - the other woman's son is a correspondent in St. Petersburg. They travel a lot, but hadn't been to the monastery on the next island!
I left the island quickly because I wanted to go to a carpet exhibit in the Galata area. The directions were - in the Crimean church, near the tünel, down from the German high school. Early on, someone told me to ask 3 people for directions because the first 2 will be too polite to tell you they don't know the address and will just point somewhere. Well, I decided that on Sunday, you need to ask 6 people.
I got to the tünel (the name for the tram that climbs the hill.) No church around - wandered up the street, heard some Brits, but they were only familiar with other churches. Then a German woman pointed me to the school, but the guards wouldn't let me pass the gate. I asked the police- he simply pulled out a map. The Brits had said that the churches are quite hidden. Then I stopped some Italians with a guidebook- but no entries under Crimea. I continued to wander around and saw a sign for a restaurant that a friend had recommended. I walked into the restaurant and finally the woman knew the church and gave me simple directions.
It was all totally worth it because this exhibit was indeed special- only takes place twice a year. A German couple started teaching some villagers about 30 years ago how to use natural dyes that their great-grandparents had used in their rugs. They had a great video about the whole process- "A piece of Carpet History," by Barbara Trottnow. Someone at Emory should purchase the video. Harald Böhmer is the German who researches old carpets at Mamara University in order to learn about the natural dyes. They have formed 2 cooperatives. Now the women in the villages are the main breadwinners. The film says that the men are proud to have their wives in the co-ops. The men work as dyers and some make the wooden tools used in the process and of course they herd the sheep. Now the people have employment and don't need to leave their villages which are located in western Turkey- near Troy and Bodrum. The video even showed the young kids collecting flowers for the dyes.
Some of the men were at the exhibit. I'm pleased to say I purchased a carpet. It was nice not to have to bargain and to know that you are paying a decent price. After watching the video and seeing all the work that goes into the carpet, I feel the price is well worth it. It's a great project- something our BBAs could think about - social entrepreneurship. Böhmer revived an ancient craft. Now 1/3 of Turkish carpets use natural dyes. I have the name of the carpet weaver and her village. The men even said that quite a few of their women went to a San Francisco museum to demonstrate carpet weaving!
An American was volunteering in the exhibit. Dee was very knowledgeable about the carpets and speaks Turkish so could ask my questions to the men from the village. Turns out she was here during the devastating earthquake in 1999. She was translating for NGOs. She was then hired by Mercy Corp and travels all around the world. She does logistics and said this is in great demand. Perhaps some of our BBAs would be interested in such work- Dee says NGOs really need business and finance people.
So she is off to Sudan in a few weeks. She offered me her apartment! So we'll see- all in all- it was a delightful afternoon. As I was leaving, we heard a lot of music outside and I was told that was a wedding procession. So I rushed out to take pictures. It was just a few women with 3 musicians. One young woman held flowers - maybe she was the bride? They were celebrating something and they didn't have much money. They danced a few minutes in the street. Then the small crowd dispersed and a woman brought new socks to the musicians- not sure if this was there full renumeration.
Mike Froman will be happy to know I took 7 forms of transportation from my guest room to home- bus, boat, subway, fernicular, tram, metro and dolmus (minibus.)
Sunday 30 November 2008
Monday 24 November 2008
Sunday - a city of contrasts
Starbucks opens at 7 and the coffee is ready at 7:45! I headed to the Jewish museum. I forgot what Mike and Carol had said about the directions. The guide book says it's near Galata Tower so I went there and walked in circles. Finally figured that if I went to the synagogue in the area, they would tell me. The guard again told me to go to the tower, then a woman on the 2nd floor of an apt. building started explaining to me and then came down to draw me a map!
Carol Froman said banks have great exhibits, so on my way I saw a poster about Turks in Paris. Sunday the bank was closed, but I knocked and of course there were 4 guards for each floor - even though it was closed for business. Despite the fact that there were 20 posters leading up to the exhibit, the guard took me to the basement to the permanent exhibit! Finally I got to the right place to see a terrific documentary about Turks who went to Paris in the early 1900s and how the Parisian intellectuals influenced them.
The Jewish museum is small, but very well done. When we were expelled from Spain, the Ottomans welcomed us. Each different millet or community in the Ottoman empire had their distinct dress. In the ethno section they had "long dress for long life." During a traditional gathering called Fashadura, still in use today, a fabric sprinkled over with candies is cut by a relative whose parents are still alive and a dress is made from this fabric for the newborn. I saw a simple white sheath - symbolizing wishes for a long life.
A small section was devoted to Turkish diplomats who saved Jews during WWII. Necdet Kent, who was posted as Consul General to Marseilles, France between 1941 and 1944, gave Turkish citizenship to dozens of Turkish Jews living in France who did not have proper identity papers to save them from deportation to the Nazi gas chambers. On one occasion, Kent boarded a train bound for Auschwitz after Nazi guards refused to let some 70 Jews with Turkish citizenship disembark. After more than an hour, the guards allowed Kent and the Jews to leave. Kent was recognized as a Righteous Gentile by Yad Vashem in Jerusalem. Muhtar Kent, his son, is the CEO of Coke.
I headed along the shore of the Bosphorus toward Istanbul Modern. 24 hours a day men are fishing. It's always a pleasure to sit on a bench and observe the intricacies of their art.
The new modern art museum is located between 2 mosques, so naturally I stepped in to view their splendor. Noticed an elaborate book holder on the wall, unfortunately my camera battery died.
The museum is right on the sea. The library entrance has a ceiling of books hanging from strings. I kept thinking Barbara and Ish would really enjoy this place - I think I enjoyed the architecture more than the art. They had lots of video installations.
Hannah- remember the owners of the hookah bar in Atlanta said Turks don't really use hookahs, that's just for the tourists. Well, on my way there was this slew of cafes with hookahs and people playing backgammon. The most sophisticated had monitors attached to the couches with the soccer game playing!
Sights and sounds of the city
Carol Froman said banks have great exhibits, so on my way I saw a poster about Turks in Paris. Sunday the bank was closed, but I knocked and of course there were 4 guards for each floor - even though it was closed for business. Despite the fact that there were 20 posters leading up to the exhibit, the guard took me to the basement to the permanent exhibit! Finally I got to the right place to see a terrific documentary about Turks who went to Paris in the early 1900s and how the Parisian intellectuals influenced them.
The Jewish museum is small, but very well done. When we were expelled from Spain, the Ottomans welcomed us. Each different millet or community in the Ottoman empire had their distinct dress. In the ethno section they had "long dress for long life." During a traditional gathering called Fashadura, still in use today, a fabric sprinkled over with candies is cut by a relative whose parents are still alive and a dress is made from this fabric for the newborn. I saw a simple white sheath - symbolizing wishes for a long life.
A small section was devoted to Turkish diplomats who saved Jews during WWII. Necdet Kent, who was posted as Consul General to Marseilles, France between 1941 and 1944, gave Turkish citizenship to dozens of Turkish Jews living in France who did not have proper identity papers to save them from deportation to the Nazi gas chambers. On one occasion, Kent boarded a train bound for Auschwitz after Nazi guards refused to let some 70 Jews with Turkish citizenship disembark. After more than an hour, the guards allowed Kent and the Jews to leave. Kent was recognized as a Righteous Gentile by Yad Vashem in Jerusalem. Muhtar Kent, his son, is the CEO of Coke.
I headed along the shore of the Bosphorus toward Istanbul Modern. 24 hours a day men are fishing. It's always a pleasure to sit on a bench and observe the intricacies of their art.
The new modern art museum is located between 2 mosques, so naturally I stepped in to view their splendor. Noticed an elaborate book holder on the wall, unfortunately my camera battery died.
The museum is right on the sea. The library entrance has a ceiling of books hanging from strings. I kept thinking Barbara and Ish would really enjoy this place - I think I enjoyed the architecture more than the art. They had lots of video installations.
Hannah- remember the owners of the hookah bar in Atlanta said Turks don't really use hookahs, that's just for the tourists. Well, on my way there was this slew of cafes with hookahs and people playing backgammon. The most sophisticated had monitors attached to the couches with the soccer game playing!
Sights and sounds of the city
- hole in the wall - man had rows of balloons tacked to the wall and offers passersby the chance to take a shot
- 5 yr old sits on the subway steps selling kleenex packs
- man stands on the sidewalk with a scale in front of him offering people a to weigh in
- 8 lira to go in and take a shower
- man stands in the subway trying to sell a toy train and spinning tops
- woman with black headscarf covering her face, with jeans underneath her coat and clinging to her boyfriend
- lots of young women in head scarves flirting with their boyfriends
- I tell the young clerk I'm American & he gives me a thumbs up and says "Obama!"
Sunday 23 November 2008
Luck was with me this week-end
I mentioned to Didar, the library director, that I was looking for a place to stay in Istanbul. She mentioned a teachers' hostel. We called (my colleagues called for me!) and they kept saying they were full- call back. I had luck with just walking into a hotel last week-end, so I thought I would try my luck again.
I walked into the hotel at 5:30, the clerk did not speak English. After my 2 Turkish words the security guy started translating. First the clerk said no room. Then he said there is a room, but it is cold and you have to share it. I asked if it was non-smoking- he said he would check. Then they said I could have a double room, but I must pay the full price. I then asked to see the room. It was very basic. I asked about the loud music playing. He said there would be a wedding on the roof, but by law, they would have to stop by 12! I tried to get the single rate, but he claimed they were a govt place- so no negotiations. Then when I went back to register, I realized I had forgotten my passport! I just had my Koç picture ID. Luckily they accepted that and of course brought me tea in the meantime.
My friend Louise gave me Turkish tapes to practice. There was this phrase- continuous hot water. I thought "these tapes are really dated, I won't' need this phrase"....'til I arrived at the teachers hostel! At 5, no hot water, but later in the evening there was.
I was in central Istanbul- Beyoğlu- near all the action. Istikial Caddesi is the Times Square of Istanbul. It is a pedestrian street with many fancy shops, 2 Starbucks, tons of restaurants as well as many consulates. People walk there at all hours of the night and day. Friday night I went to an animation film festival at a museum.
Saturday I was happy to go to Starbucks and get my muffin! I was off to Dolmabahçe Palace, built between the years 1843-1856 under the orders of Sultan Abdülmecid. Hannah and Noah- Turkey really respects their teachers- I got in free with my Koç ID. You must take a tour. As I entered I heard a group of Israelis. I started my tour, but the guide did not explain anything. So I waited for the Israelis to come in and asked if I could join them. The guide was superb! He was born in Turkey, but lived in Israel a long time. He spoke very fast Hebrew. It was fun being with them. The Sultan visited Versailles and wanted something similar. He added the eastern influences. The Israelis said- "we're from the east- the east has so much beauty- so this palace is more beautiful than Versailles!" Indeed, it is hard to describe. Check the web site. There was so many huge crystal chandeliers from Venice, larger than you can imagine. And crystal balustrades. The final reception room was half the size of a football field, it looked like the Vatican. The harem was the second part of the tour, which was actually quite shabby. There was some worn furniture around a small charcoal warmer and it made me realize these huge palaces were probably pretty cold and drafty!
Then I did one of my favorite activities (don't you agree, Martha?) I went to check out fancy hotels. The Four Seasons Bosphorus is a magnificent hotel. (Malisa - a place to seriously consider in March!!) The sister of one of our MBAs is the banquet manager. I called for her, but she was busy - so I headed to the spa. To my WPEC buddies - in the work-out room - each machine had a towel and water. The pool has an underwater music system! Of course they have a haman. They have a lovely dark room with chaise lounges to relax after your treatment.
All around the hotel there are flower displays - orchids that rival the Botanical Garden. Amazing artwork. And needless to say - when I asked to see a room, they said they were fully booked.
I then went next door to the original luxury hotel in Istanbul - Çirağan Palace. First they would not let me in the palace side so I went into the modern addition. As I was wonderiıng around I found a corridor with pictures about the history....and then just climbed the staircase and voila- I'm in the palace. Novartis was having a seminar. Again - 6 story chandeleirs - like a wedding cake. They had a lovely exhibit about Sultans who were poets.
Returned to the animation festival to see a Czech. Then I ended my lucky day by stumbling upon the veggie restaurant that my friend had brought me to 2 yrs ago. Then the rain came down.
I walked into the hotel at 5:30, the clerk did not speak English. After my 2 Turkish words the security guy started translating. First the clerk said no room. Then he said there is a room, but it is cold and you have to share it. I asked if it was non-smoking- he said he would check. Then they said I could have a double room, but I must pay the full price. I then asked to see the room. It was very basic. I asked about the loud music playing. He said there would be a wedding on the roof, but by law, they would have to stop by 12! I tried to get the single rate, but he claimed they were a govt place- so no negotiations. Then when I went back to register, I realized I had forgotten my passport! I just had my Koç picture ID. Luckily they accepted that and of course brought me tea in the meantime.
My friend Louise gave me Turkish tapes to practice. There was this phrase- continuous hot water. I thought "these tapes are really dated, I won't' need this phrase"....'til I arrived at the teachers hostel! At 5, no hot water, but later in the evening there was.
I was in central Istanbul- Beyoğlu- near all the action. Istikial Caddesi is the Times Square of Istanbul. It is a pedestrian street with many fancy shops, 2 Starbucks, tons of restaurants as well as many consulates. People walk there at all hours of the night and day. Friday night I went to an animation film festival at a museum.
Saturday I was happy to go to Starbucks and get my muffin! I was off to Dolmabahçe Palace, built between the years 1843-1856 under the orders of Sultan Abdülmecid. Hannah and Noah- Turkey really respects their teachers- I got in free with my Koç ID. You must take a tour. As I entered I heard a group of Israelis. I started my tour, but the guide did not explain anything. So I waited for the Israelis to come in and asked if I could join them. The guide was superb! He was born in Turkey, but lived in Israel a long time. He spoke very fast Hebrew. It was fun being with them. The Sultan visited Versailles and wanted something similar. He added the eastern influences. The Israelis said- "we're from the east- the east has so much beauty- so this palace is more beautiful than Versailles!" Indeed, it is hard to describe. Check the web site. There was so many huge crystal chandeliers from Venice, larger than you can imagine. And crystal balustrades. The final reception room was half the size of a football field, it looked like the Vatican. The harem was the second part of the tour, which was actually quite shabby. There was some worn furniture around a small charcoal warmer and it made me realize these huge palaces were probably pretty cold and drafty!
Then I did one of my favorite activities (don't you agree, Martha?) I went to check out fancy hotels. The Four Seasons Bosphorus is a magnificent hotel. (Malisa - a place to seriously consider in March!!) The sister of one of our MBAs is the banquet manager. I called for her, but she was busy - so I headed to the spa. To my WPEC buddies - in the work-out room - each machine had a towel and water. The pool has an underwater music system! Of course they have a haman. They have a lovely dark room with chaise lounges to relax after your treatment.
All around the hotel there are flower displays - orchids that rival the Botanical Garden. Amazing artwork. And needless to say - when I asked to see a room, they said they were fully booked.
I then went next door to the original luxury hotel in Istanbul - Çirağan Palace. First they would not let me in the palace side so I went into the modern addition. As I was wonderiıng around I found a corridor with pictures about the history....and then just climbed the staircase and voila- I'm in the palace. Novartis was having a seminar. Again - 6 story chandeleirs - like a wedding cake. They had a lovely exhibit about Sultans who were poets.
Returned to the animation festival to see a Czech. Then I ended my lucky day by stumbling upon the veggie restaurant that my friend had brought me to 2 yrs ago. Then the rain came down.
I meet the President
Tuesday night I met my 2nd roommate, Tuba. She is a post-doc studying human rights. She reviews school textbooks and looks at how the books have changed overtime. I think her topic is fascinating and would love to discuss it for hours and learn more from her, but she doesn't appear too interested in enlightening me.
I can take a staff shuttle to work at 8 or pay for a minibus at another time. I am determined to walk this week. It is not far, maybe it would take me 20 min- but there are no sidewalks. I saw an elderly couple walking the route, so I will try.
After work I go to the gym. They have very nice weight machines. Then I go to dinner. It's not so easy to meet people at dinner. I watch the news and try to figure out if Hillary is Sec. of State already. The other evening I saw this man pass my table, sort of looking for a place to sit- so I motioned to him to join me. I introduced myself and then asked who he was and he replied, 'I'm the president.' So we had a brief talk before he had to return and finish his report.
Wed. eve I went to a concert with the library director. Mercan Dede was the group- 6 musicians playing traditional instruments with some electronic music. A woman preformed the dervish dance- very untraditional. She was fabulous- she had electric lights on her gown! The audience is totally involved- clapping to the music.
Thursday I was suppose to observe on the reference desk, but not much was happening. A class came into the library and the professor was going to give them some database training. I went to observe and introduced myself. Turns out the professor is an Aussie- he was happy to have me do the intruction. It was nice to have some interaction with the students.
Friday I met the Dean of the School of Arts and Sciences (the business school is part of this school.) He told me about the programs Koç has with numerous foreign schools. He was surprised to hear about some of the things we do, so it's nice we can really learn from each other. He mentioned they have video conferencing equipment that they don't use - so that's something to explore.
I was taken to lunch by the coordinators of the MBA program in the faculty dining room. We had waiters and a view of the forest. (They tell me we can see the Black Sea from campus, but so far it has been too cloudy.) Özdil was an exchange student in Albany, GA!!! She remembers her roommate reading the bible to her every night. She is as friendly as can be. Her sister is in Atlanta. Her brother-in-law is high up in finance in Coke.
OK- enough about school- let's get to the week-end.
I can take a staff shuttle to work at 8 or pay for a minibus at another time. I am determined to walk this week. It is not far, maybe it would take me 20 min- but there are no sidewalks. I saw an elderly couple walking the route, so I will try.
After work I go to the gym. They have very nice weight machines. Then I go to dinner. It's not so easy to meet people at dinner. I watch the news and try to figure out if Hillary is Sec. of State already. The other evening I saw this man pass my table, sort of looking for a place to sit- so I motioned to him to join me. I introduced myself and then asked who he was and he replied, 'I'm the president.' So we had a brief talk before he had to return and finish his report.
Wed. eve I went to a concert with the library director. Mercan Dede was the group- 6 musicians playing traditional instruments with some electronic music. A woman preformed the dervish dance- very untraditional. She was fabulous- she had electric lights on her gown! The audience is totally involved- clapping to the music.
Thursday I was suppose to observe on the reference desk, but not much was happening. A class came into the library and the professor was going to give them some database training. I went to observe and introduced myself. Turns out the professor is an Aussie- he was happy to have me do the intruction. It was nice to have some interaction with the students.
Friday I met the Dean of the School of Arts and Sciences (the business school is part of this school.) He told me about the programs Koç has with numerous foreign schools. He was surprised to hear about some of the things we do, so it's nice we can really learn from each other. He mentioned they have video conferencing equipment that they don't use - so that's something to explore.
I was taken to lunch by the coordinators of the MBA program in the faculty dining room. We had waiters and a view of the forest. (They tell me we can see the Black Sea from campus, but so far it has been too cloudy.) Özdil was an exchange student in Albany, GA!!! She remembers her roommate reading the bible to her every night. She is as friendly as can be. Her sister is in Atlanta. Her brother-in-law is high up in finance in Coke.
OK- enough about school- let's get to the week-end.
It's time for a break
I was a little nervous arriving at Koç on my first day, Nov. 17. As soon as I met the library director, my fears vanished. Although she had not communicated with me during my year long application process, Didar is very friendly and makes every effort to make me feel comfortable.
We met in the conference room with one of two assistant directors. Koç was started in 1993, so everything is relatively new. The library has beautiful cherry wood furniture and woodwork throughout, making a very pleasant work environment.
The first question they asked me was why Turkey! So I proceeded to tell them about my aversion to XMAS. I am their first visiting librarian; they are pleased that I expressed an interest in their library.
They are thirsty for knowledge about how our library works. I'll save the details for my colleagues and just tell you that one of the first things they told me was about the breaks- at 10:30 and 3:30. They start at 8:30 (though all my meetings begin at 9:30.) So while we were meeting, the tea lady was serving us tea. Then we had a break and went down to the break room - and again tea was served!
At noon, we all went to the cafeteria for lunch. Koç was built in a forest. (They told me the law suit is still going on because not everyone liked the idea of building in a forest.) The nearest town, Sariyer, is about 15 min. down the hill. So everyone seems to eat on campus. Maybe meals are subsidized. (Transportation to the school is provided by multiple mini buses that come from all over.) I am provided tickets for 3 meals daily in the cafeteria. The food is delicious! Huge salad bar (no ranch dressing, jello or canned peaches.) There are 3 stations with a variety of entrees, soup, appetizer and desserts. The library team sits together. When they talk to me they use the term friend instead of colleague, but I think they are genuinely friends.
After lunch, they take me up to the alumni club. They like it because students are not allowed! It looks like Delta's Crown Room. Library staff are playing pool and they serve cappaccino!
This was the routine for the first week. Different team members were assigned to take me to lunch and then we went upstairs. I also quickly learned that they like to huddle ın the doorways of the terrace to smoke. Thank goodness no smoking is permitted in any building. About 90% smoke and they're all young. I told them my mission is to start a smoking cessation clinic!
I share an office with one of the 2 new business librarians. Derya, who has been the business librarian for 10 yrs, just moved to a new position. There kicked Gerbe out of her office to make room for me! I have a phone and computer. Of course it is a challenge to use a Turkish keyboard, but I'm managing. (amazing how many English language words have i's!)
English is the language of instruction, but they speak Turkish amongst themselves. When I was introduced to everyone during the library tour, I used my 3 Turkish expressions. They then made the comment that my Turkish will improve during my stay. In the afternon, one of the librarians brought me a book of Turkish grammer. I tried to express my appreciation by saying maybe I could check it out. She replied by telling me she had already checked it out for me!
I had a tour of the campus. Koç is one of the richest men in Turkey. Koç Industries is a conglomorate. The library sits on a plaza with the student center and the administration building. Nearby are about 3 classroom buildings. There is beautiful art work and sculpture thoughout. When I returned from the tour, Tuba told everyone I was impressed with the gym!
Differences from Emory - the male staff wear ties. The security guy wears a suit and makes sure the noise level is kept down. There is a cleaning man on duty all the time. Anyone can enter the building. They have 2 24 hour study rooms at the entrance to the library, so after 9 pm students can only enter these 2 rooms.
Everyone' English is quite good, but they use too instead of a lot and say every time instead of any time. My office mate struggles sometimes, but I am so lucky with their English fluency.
We met in the conference room with one of two assistant directors. Koç was started in 1993, so everything is relatively new. The library has beautiful cherry wood furniture and woodwork throughout, making a very pleasant work environment.
The first question they asked me was why Turkey! So I proceeded to tell them about my aversion to XMAS. I am their first visiting librarian; they are pleased that I expressed an interest in their library.
They are thirsty for knowledge about how our library works. I'll save the details for my colleagues and just tell you that one of the first things they told me was about the breaks- at 10:30 and 3:30. They start at 8:30 (though all my meetings begin at 9:30.) So while we were meeting, the tea lady was serving us tea. Then we had a break and went down to the break room - and again tea was served!
At noon, we all went to the cafeteria for lunch. Koç was built in a forest. (They told me the law suit is still going on because not everyone liked the idea of building in a forest.) The nearest town, Sariyer, is about 15 min. down the hill. So everyone seems to eat on campus. Maybe meals are subsidized. (Transportation to the school is provided by multiple mini buses that come from all over.) I am provided tickets for 3 meals daily in the cafeteria. The food is delicious! Huge salad bar (no ranch dressing, jello or canned peaches.) There are 3 stations with a variety of entrees, soup, appetizer and desserts. The library team sits together. When they talk to me they use the term friend instead of colleague, but I think they are genuinely friends.
After lunch, they take me up to the alumni club. They like it because students are not allowed! It looks like Delta's Crown Room. Library staff are playing pool and they serve cappaccino!
This was the routine for the first week. Different team members were assigned to take me to lunch and then we went upstairs. I also quickly learned that they like to huddle ın the doorways of the terrace to smoke. Thank goodness no smoking is permitted in any building. About 90% smoke and they're all young. I told them my mission is to start a smoking cessation clinic!
I share an office with one of the 2 new business librarians. Derya, who has been the business librarian for 10 yrs, just moved to a new position. There kicked Gerbe out of her office to make room for me! I have a phone and computer. Of course it is a challenge to use a Turkish keyboard, but I'm managing. (amazing how many English language words have i's!)
English is the language of instruction, but they speak Turkish amongst themselves. When I was introduced to everyone during the library tour, I used my 3 Turkish expressions. They then made the comment that my Turkish will improve during my stay. In the afternon, one of the librarians brought me a book of Turkish grammer. I tried to express my appreciation by saying maybe I could check it out. She replied by telling me she had already checked it out for me!
I had a tour of the campus. Koç is one of the richest men in Turkey. Koç Industries is a conglomorate. The library sits on a plaza with the student center and the administration building. Nearby are about 3 classroom buildings. There is beautiful art work and sculpture thoughout. When I returned from the tour, Tuba told everyone I was impressed with the gym!
Differences from Emory - the male staff wear ties. The security guy wears a suit and makes sure the noise level is kept down. There is a cleaning man on duty all the time. Anyone can enter the building. They have 2 24 hour study rooms at the entrance to the library, so after 9 pm students can only enter these 2 rooms.
Everyone' English is quite good, but they use too instead of a lot and say every time instead of any time. My office mate struggles sometimes, but I am so lucky with their English fluency.
Friday 21 November 2008
First Week-end
I woke up with the call to prayer today (5:50) and yesterday they gave me a laptop so finally I have time to write.
I arrived last Friday in Istanbul. On Saturday I took the boat to visit Eyüp, a religious area. The guidebook advises not to visit on Friday because so many go to the mosque. It has some sacred tombs. I went into the mosque and found a place with the women upstairs. The iman was giving a sermon. the place was packed and they kept coming!
The best part was seeing 2 young boys dressed up for their circumcision. I will post pictures. Muslims have these ceremonies up to the age of 12 or so. The little boys looked like miniature sultans- complete with daggers and swords!
I met my friend for dinner (he is the former hotel clerk- we stayed in touch for 2 yrs.) We had fish sandwiches by the Galata Bridge. Men and a few women fish on the Galata Bridge 24 hours. Erhan told me about his plans- sort of bleak. He is a college graduate, but makes very little working in a hotel. Like many Turks, he lives at home. He thinks about going abroad to work or marrying a Scandanavian- I nixed that idea for him.
Sunday I was invited, thanks to Michael Berger, to a baby naming at a synagogue. Security is tight because they had a bombing there. I approached a man nearby on the street to ask for the entrance because I knew it was on the side. He said no- the synagogue is closed. But, when I showed him the name of the host- he directed me to the side entrance. They have a scanning machine and a room that you enter first and then you are buzzed into the building. I did not have to show any id- the host informed them I was coming and that was sufficient.
The men had pink kippas! This was a naming for twins. The place was packed- 500+. Piped in music- people didn't even sing mazel tov. The cantor just sang. 3 video cameras and many photographers.
Then.....the reception! Many people in the world don't have such parties for weddings! There was a big room with candle-lit tables, then another room with couches. Many buffet tables with delicous food. In the back was a magician and assistant for the kids- and yes, Turkish kids are like American kids- they had special food for them! There were 3 musicians and yes- you guessed it- a cutting of the cake- which consisted of white blocks- like baby blocks.
People weren't that friendly- I found one woman who spoke a little English. But as she started getting stuck on words, she said- so you do speak some Turkish, right? and proceeded to talk in Turkish.
At 4 the driver from Koc came to pick me up. Sunday there was not much traffic and if you drive 80 mi/hr and disobey all traffic rules, you make it to Koç in about 40 min
From the campus they brought me to my apartment. The university has explosive growth, so they rent some apt nearby. I am just down the road- the area is quite ugly- just 8 story apartment buildings plopped down in barren lots.
My flatmate, Isha, was very welcoming. She is a post-doc in Chemical Engineering. She gave me dinner. She is from Erzurum- in the east- not too far from Armenia. She said her 'ancients' came from Azerbaijan. Of course I couldn't wait to talk politics with her. She is observant and prays when she can. Her mother wears a scarf and Isha thinks women should be able to wear the scarf in universities.
We have 3 bedrooms and a living room and kitchen- large and pleasant. One roommate has the master bedroom and bath- so just Isha and I share a bathroom. Then I discovered another bathroom in the hallway- great- 3 bathrooms. But, this one is Turkish- a porcelain hole in the ground, so I just use the sink!
Both flatmates have double tea kettles- they look like double boilers. Turks drink prodigious amounts of tea. Of course shoes are left in the hallway, even tho we have no Turkish carpets. And thanks to my Israeli experience, I'm adept at climbing stairs in the dark. Everyone but America knows how to conserve. When you enter the building, you press the hall light and then climb the stairs- there are switches on each landing, but invariably the light goes off when you're in the middle of the stairs.
now about work.....
I arrived last Friday in Istanbul. On Saturday I took the boat to visit Eyüp, a religious area. The guidebook advises not to visit on Friday because so many go to the mosque. It has some sacred tombs. I went into the mosque and found a place with the women upstairs. The iman was giving a sermon. the place was packed and they kept coming!
The best part was seeing 2 young boys dressed up for their circumcision. I will post pictures. Muslims have these ceremonies up to the age of 12 or so. The little boys looked like miniature sultans- complete with daggers and swords!
I met my friend for dinner (he is the former hotel clerk- we stayed in touch for 2 yrs.) We had fish sandwiches by the Galata Bridge. Men and a few women fish on the Galata Bridge 24 hours. Erhan told me about his plans- sort of bleak. He is a college graduate, but makes very little working in a hotel. Like many Turks, he lives at home. He thinks about going abroad to work or marrying a Scandanavian- I nixed that idea for him.
Sunday I was invited, thanks to Michael Berger, to a baby naming at a synagogue. Security is tight because they had a bombing there. I approached a man nearby on the street to ask for the entrance because I knew it was on the side. He said no- the synagogue is closed. But, when I showed him the name of the host- he directed me to the side entrance. They have a scanning machine and a room that you enter first and then you are buzzed into the building. I did not have to show any id- the host informed them I was coming and that was sufficient.
The men had pink kippas! This was a naming for twins. The place was packed- 500+. Piped in music- people didn't even sing mazel tov. The cantor just sang. 3 video cameras and many photographers.
Then.....the reception! Many people in the world don't have such parties for weddings! There was a big room with candle-lit tables, then another room with couches. Many buffet tables with delicous food. In the back was a magician and assistant for the kids- and yes, Turkish kids are like American kids- they had special food for them! There were 3 musicians and yes- you guessed it- a cutting of the cake- which consisted of white blocks- like baby blocks.
People weren't that friendly- I found one woman who spoke a little English. But as she started getting stuck on words, she said- so you do speak some Turkish, right? and proceeded to talk in Turkish.
At 4 the driver from Koc came to pick me up. Sunday there was not much traffic and if you drive 80 mi/hr and disobey all traffic rules, you make it to Koç in about 40 min
From the campus they brought me to my apartment. The university has explosive growth, so they rent some apt nearby. I am just down the road- the area is quite ugly- just 8 story apartment buildings plopped down in barren lots.
My flatmate, Isha, was very welcoming. She is a post-doc in Chemical Engineering. She gave me dinner. She is from Erzurum- in the east- not too far from Armenia. She said her 'ancients' came from Azerbaijan. Of course I couldn't wait to talk politics with her. She is observant and prays when she can. Her mother wears a scarf and Isha thinks women should be able to wear the scarf in universities.
We have 3 bedrooms and a living room and kitchen- large and pleasant. One roommate has the master bedroom and bath- so just Isha and I share a bathroom. Then I discovered another bathroom in the hallway- great- 3 bathrooms. But, this one is Turkish- a porcelain hole in the ground, so I just use the sink!
Both flatmates have double tea kettles- they look like double boilers. Turks drink prodigious amounts of tea. Of course shoes are left in the hallway, even tho we have no Turkish carpets. And thanks to my Israeli experience, I'm adept at climbing stairs in the dark. Everyone but America knows how to conserve. When you enter the building, you press the hall light and then climb the stairs- there are switches on each landing, but invariably the light goes off when you're in the middle of the stairs.
now about work.....
Sunday 9 November 2008
4 days to liftoff
Thanks to Delta, I'm limited with what I can bring. So my packing is done- hopefully I have enough warm sweaters and socks. I leave on Thursday and arrive in Paris Friday at 7 am. Supposedly I have a short time to catch my flight to Istanbul. I arrive about 2:30 and will take the metro to my hotel.
I am meeting my friend Erhan for dinner on Saturday. He worked in the hotel where I stayed in 2006. He has since completed his army service. On Sunday I am invited to a baby naming at the Neve Shalom synagogue, thanks to an introduction from Michael Berger.
I am bringing my Obama t-shirt, so hopefully that will serve as a good icebreaker.
I am meeting my friend Erhan for dinner on Saturday. He worked in the hotel where I stayed in 2006. He has since completed his army service. On Sunday I am invited to a baby naming at the Neve Shalom synagogue, thanks to an introduction from Michael Berger.
I am bringing my Obama t-shirt, so hopefully that will serve as a good icebreaker.
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