Saturday 13 December 2008

Guzelyurt in the fog

We arrived in Guzelyurt about 3:30. Halil continued to present options to me- he could bring me to Selime in the valley where he knows the pension owner or..... But, we checked out the pension where I had made a reservation. A family had added a few rooms to their home for guests. He said he felt comfortable leaving me with the family- so this is where I should stay.

Unlike the description in the guidebook, the room was OK- extra mattress stored behind the couch, broken TV and shower head just stuck in the bathroom wall did'nt add too much to the ambiance, but I had a beautiful view. The town features Monastery Valley - dotted with ancient churches. I left for a quick walk before dark.

Guzelyurt was far from the big city lights - a village untouched by modernity. Think of the big cliffs on the Palasaides Parkway - and then picture a window with a light inside and people living up there. Well, that's what I saw. It was fun to greet people with "Iyi Bayramlar" which means happy holidays. Of course I stuck out with my red wool hat - as opposed to a scarf- but smiles broke out in response to my greeting. A small boy took my hand and kissed it and raised it to his forehead. I was so touched (but, also pondered that he viewed me as his elder!)

The guidebook noted that I would be dining with the family. When the 10th grader knocked on my door to announce dinner at 6, I entered to see the table set for one! I ate as members of the family sat around and watched. They make bread on top of the stove - again a type of delicious thick pita. Water was served in a clay jug with a doily on top. The yogurt soup was good, the veggies too spicey.

I would have loved to have chatted with the family, but even the 10th grader's English was very limited, so I caught up on 5 days of "Democracy Now" on my iPod.

Up at 6:40- I had requested dinner at 7. The mother was waiting for me. I knew not to ask for coffee! The weather wasn't great, but I took off anyway for Monastary Valley again. The fog was extremely thick- you couldn't see 20 feet ahead. The path had some signs for the ancient churches. I found the first one, couldn't fınd the next two. Greeted one man on the path and he was incredulous as to what I was doing out in such weather. In the back of my mind I heard David saying, 'Lee, you should turn back.' So I headed back to the village. A tractor stopped to pick me off and I climbed on- just for Mike Froman- adding a tractor to my mode of transportation. He lowered his hitch and I held on carefully as we bumped along over the big cobblestones.

I then asked an elderly man about a bus and he pointed out the bus schedule. I decided to take the next bus out in 30 minutes. I felt bad leaving early, but I had no idea whether the weather would improve or not.

When I got to Aksaray I decided to head to Konya because I had no idea what the weather would be like in the Ihlara Valley. I was sorry to miss the opportunity to see the valley, but I had to make a decision.

1 comment:

maya514 said...

Thanks for re-awakening my memories of Cappadocia!