Luck was with me this week-end

I mentioned to Didar, the library director, that I was looking for a place to stay in Istanbul. She mentioned a teachers' hostel. We called (my colleagues called for me!) and they kept saying they were full- call back. I had luck with just walking into a hotel last week-end, so I thought I would try my luck again.

I walked into the hotel at 5:30, the clerk did not speak English. After my 2 Turkish words the security guy started translating. First the clerk said no room. Then he said there is a room, but it is cold and you have to share it. I asked if it was non-smoking- he said he would check. Then they said I could have a double room, but I must pay the full price. I then asked to see the room. It was very basic. I asked about the loud music playing. He said there would be a wedding on the roof, but by law, they would have to stop by 12! I tried to get the single rate, but he claimed they were a govt place- so no negotiations. Then when I went back to register, I realized I had forgotten my passport! I just had my Koç picture ID. Luckily they accepted that and of course brought me tea in the meantime.

My friend Louise gave me Turkish tapes to practice. There was this phrase- continuous hot water. I thought "these tapes are really dated, I won't' need this phrase"....'til I arrived at the teachers hostel! At 5, no hot water, but later in the evening there was.

I was in central Istanbul- Beyoğlu- near all the action. Istikial Caddesi is the Times Square of Istanbul. It is a pedestrian street with many fancy shops, 2 Starbucks, tons of restaurants as well as many consulates. People walk there at all hours of the night and day. Friday night I went to an animation film festival at a museum.

Saturday I was happy to go to Starbucks and get my muffin! I was off to Dolmabahçe Palace, built between the years 1843-1856 under the orders of Sultan Abdülmecid. Hannah and Noah- Turkey really respects their teachers- I got in free with my Koç ID. You must take a tour. As I entered I heard a group of Israelis. I started my tour, but the guide did not explain anything. So I waited for the Israelis to come in and asked if I could join them. The guide was superb! He was born in Turkey, but lived in Israel a long time. He spoke very fast Hebrew. It was fun being with them. The Sultan visited Versailles and wanted something similar. He added the eastern influences. The Israelis said- "we're from the east- the east has so much beauty- so this palace is more beautiful than Versailles!" Indeed, it is hard to describe. Check the web site. There was so many huge crystal chandeliers from Venice, larger than you can imagine. And crystal balustrades. The final reception room was half the size of a football field, it looked like the Vatican. The harem was the second part of the tour, which was actually quite shabby. There was some worn furniture around a small charcoal warmer and it made me realize these huge palaces were probably pretty cold and drafty!

Then I did one of my favorite activities (don't you agree, Martha?) I went to check out fancy hotels. The Four Seasons Bosphorus is a magnificent hotel. (Malisa - a place to seriously consider in March!!) The sister of one of our MBAs is the banquet manager. I called for her, but she was busy - so I headed to the spa. To my WPEC buddies - in the work-out room - each machine had a towel and water. The pool has an underwater music system! Of course they have a haman. They have a lovely dark room with chaise lounges to relax after your treatment.

All around the hotel there are flower displays - orchids that rival the Botanical Garden. Amazing artwork. And needless to say - when I asked to see a room, they said they were fully booked.

I then went next door to the original luxury hotel in Istanbul - Çirağan Palace. First they would not let me in the palace side so I went into the modern addition. As I was wonderiıng around I found a corridor with pictures about the history....and then just climbed the staircase and voila- I'm in the palace. Novartis was having a seminar. Again - 6 story chandeleirs - like a wedding cake. They had a lovely exhibit about Sultans who were poets.

Returned to the animation festival to see a Czech. Then I ended my lucky day by stumbling upon the veggie restaurant that my friend had brought me to 2 yrs ago. Then the rain came down.